Oh, the places you will go when creativity is untainted, and reverence of the highest order is due to the principles of the preeminent Virgil. Over the very brief eight seasons, designer Virgil Abloh unraveled creativity. This collection, the first after Abloh’s passing, was the team effort by his devoted associates. The men’s wear collection for spring summer 2023, entitled ‘Strange Math’ is a tribute to the late designer’s legacy. Streetwear and many of Abloh’s signatures are highlighted, and playfully exaggerated; tailoring is a bit looser, suiting finds international expression, varsity jackets are bathed in acid colors, all-over prints are more graphic, colors are bolder, refinement is more relaxed, and core streetwear is more individual and expressive.
Flower buttons, prints, and embroideries added brightness, happiness, and romanticism to the collection as did the scalloped hems and tie-neck dress shits. Hats that looked like folded paper, embellished suits, one with paper planes, another with the contacts of a craft box, and colorful chunky beads, that hung from the waist or hats brought the playroom the runway, adding balance and assuredness to the collection. Statement-making outerwear included floral coats, rainbow-bright wools, embossed suede, and graphic printed rainwear. Cropped sweaters over full skirts playfully challenge balance, all the while seeming perfectly paired. This collection is freedom unleashed and enlivened with the spirit of the teacher whose multi-disciplinarian creativity was focused, fierce and unbridled.