Presented at Florence’s Teatro della Pergola, Simone Rocha’s Spring 2027 menswear collection unfolded like a dream suspended somewhere between literature, theatre, and contemporary fashion. Drawing inspiration from the romantic atmosphere of Edwardian Florence and the visual richness of period costume, Rocha created a wardrobe that felt less like historical reenactment and more like the costume department for an avant-garde ballet staged in the present day.
The collection imagined a young protagonist arriving in Italy and discovering a new version of himself through clothing. Delicate embroidered tops and skirts floated alongside sharply structured garments, creating a dialogue between vulnerability and strength that has become central to Rocha’s work. White cottons, intricate embellishments, and soft proportions lent the collection an almost ethereal quality, while black tailoring and leather aprons introduced moments of severity and discipline.
Throughout the collection, Rocha continued her exploration of masculine dress codes through unexpected silhouettes. Culottes recurred, challenging traditional notions of menswear volume, while ruched bomber jackets added a sculptural dimension to otherwise familiar forms. The tension between softness and structure was constant, creating garments that felt emotionally charged without becoming precious.
One standout look captured the collection’s appeal particularly well. A model wore long, wide, natural-colored shorts paired with a leaf-printed overshirt embellished with delicate beadwork layered over a collared shirt. In a collection often drifting through the realms of fantasy and performance, this look stepped confidently into the contemporary world. It distilled everything that makes Rocha’s work compelling: romance balanced by practicality, decoration grounded by utility, and historical references transformed into something entirely current.
While many designers look backward for inspiration, Rocha’s gift lies in making the past feel strangely modern. Spring 2027 was tender, poetic, and occasionally eccentric, but beneath its theatrical surface was a sophisticated proposition for how men might dress today. Simone Rocha.
