Japanese fashion houses and designers’ ballet with the avant-garde has become a marvelous trope of ingenuity, engineering, and expressive non-conformity. With a broad characterization, the Japanese are more concerned with questioning proportions, deconstruction, and challenging the conventional than making ‘shock and awe’ statements to define modernism. For her Sacai fall winter 2023 Designer, Chitose Abe’s distinct fusion philosophy brings reconstruction, realignment, and bold elegance to the forefront of this fashion visionary latest collection for Sacai, her label founded in 1999. The designer cites covid lockdown and motherhood, two life events that surely quell the time and energy needed for expression, as the inspiration for her ideas about hybridization.
From the notion of ‘Clothes that look different, coming and going’ Abe’s collection for fall and winter 2023 makes the familiar challenging and the silhouette wonderous from any vantage point. With simple transgressions, the designer shifts seams and sections of garments and slashes skirts revealing construction or flesh. What could be a tangle of peplums, a hodge-podge of fabric swatches, or a dizzying display of interplaying cuts and asymmetry is an intriguing melange of craft. In this collection, the designer brings shape-shifting refinement to the shake-up, creating a wearable, refined collection full of challenges and complete with a delightful modicum of subversion. Sacai.