The Martin Margiela by John Galliano Fall 2023 ready-to-wear collection is a bold and eclectic mix of various styles and influences. The collection embraces the spirit of punk and post-punk subcultures from the ’70s and ’80s while infusing it with contemporary elements.
The use of cheeky humor and intentional sexual allure adds an edgy and rebellious tone to the designs, reflecting the spirit of self-expression and fashion rebellion often associated with punk subcultures. Incorporating Americana elements, such as Western-style jackets, Mickey Mouse t-shirts, and vivid Hawaiian prints, further diversifies the collection and represents the cross-pollination of different cultural influences.
The collaboration with the American brand Pendleton, using their iconic blanket prints alongside tartan, demonstrates a willingness to explore and expand the traditional punk aesthetic beyond its London-centric roots.
The collection’s combination of trash bag scapes, tuile ballgowns, crisp pencil skirts, and fishnets with oversized long opera coats and layers of asymmetrical volume showcases a sense of urgency and defiance, characteristic of John Galliano’s style.
Overall, the collection seems to exude energy, creativity, and a spirit of rebellion, appealing to self-expression and awareness of contemporary issues. Martin Margiela.