In his first show as Creative Director, Pharrell Williams’s debut for Louis Vuitton, a massive presentation at twilight on the Pont Neuf in Paris, was sensational. With heart, soul, inclusion, celebration, and joy, the massive spectacle showcased William’s designs which will ignite a new generation of LV loyalists, excite the brand’s dedicated throngs, and sway jaded fashion naysayers to praise the show and the collection. Williams respectfully dedicated the show to his predecessor Virgil Abloh, and his gratitude to the universe was unquestionable at the show’s end. This stunning location, a-list attendees, full orchestra, and earth-shaking performance by Voice of Fire framed the designer’s expansion of LV’s design language, from the clothing to the all-important accessories.
The signature Damier checkerboard pattern was stretched, bent, recolored, contrasted, and brilliantly scaled for impact. Elegant with rugged masculinity, the pixellated camo print, worn by Pharrell for his walk on the runway, adds verve and rhythm throughout the show. Bags in the show are bolder, brighter, oversized, and more colorful than ever before. Each model in the show carried at least one bag down the runway, with many models juggling more than one. The array of styles in the collection is dazzling. We find variations on looks made famous by Williams, including the suit with shorts, pearl, and jewelry accessories and masculine variations on the classic Chanel tweed jacket.
We see denim in the collection go from formal to retro. The crisp navy suit with gold embroidery is sleek in its silhouette, classic-style denim jackets paired with baggy jeans, and the designer includes a boho faded glory denim suit in the collection. Outerwear in the collection goes from lush faux fur to plush shearling and more urban hand-painted leather jackets. For the most formal wear and traditional suitings in the collection, the logos and Damier prints are toned down. Suits are sleek and slim, finished with pencil pants or knee-length skirts. This multi-talented musician, streetwear designer, and creative innovator is an exciting addition to Louis Vuitton, where his notable innate style, cult-like following for his streetwear, and high-profile collaborations are always fashion mag fodder. This collection elevates the LV logos to new stratospheres, adding energy to the flash and awe of wearing a status brand. Like many other brands, logo wear is becoming their cash cow. Williams’s dramatic, playful, and keen play with the Damier print is indeed energetic and appealing, and I hate to ask right after a stellar show but, what comes next? Louis Vuitton.