Kenzo Men's Fall Winter 2025

 

Kenzo Fall/Winter 2025

Culture, Codes, and Collaboration

For Fall/Winter 2025, Kenzo’s creative director Nigo returned to Paris with a collection that embodied a kind of cultural archaeology—mining memories, friendships, and aesthetic collisions from both his past and streetwear’s collective memory. Once again, Nigo proved his fluency in translating diverse global references into garments that speak to the future, even while gazing lovingly into the rearview.

This season’s key collaboration came with Futura, the legendary New York graffiti artist whose signature atom motif and lyrical spray paint aesthetics gave the collection its visual heartbeat. The creative bond between the two dates back to 1996, when a young Nigo first encountered Futura in Tokyo, serendipitously wearing one of Nigo’s designs. That encounter has since evolved into a shared creative language, culminating in this co-authored moment for Kenzo.

Futura’s motifs were stitched, sprayed, and signaled across a range of silhouettes: bomber jackets, wide-leg pants, and kimono-collared suiting. The fusion of his atom symbol with a Kenzo flower created a hybrid emblem that was both nostalgic and newly minted. In one of the collection’s most striking visual threads, the graffiti motifs were layered over soft indigo cotton and paired with check-lined cuffs, evoking a kind of refined street rebellion. It wasn’t just surface decoration—Futura’s presence added texture and story to every stitch.

 

 
 

 

Memory in Motion

If Futura anchored the collection in raw, urban artistry, the rest of the season was about memory, mood, and self-referencing. Nigo drew on deeply personal cues: thick gum-sole loafers and shearling Mary Janes were partly inspired by a long-coveted pair of Patrick Cox shoes from his youth. Knitwear patterns recalled the glittering chaos of pachinko parlor machines, while rose motifs, ubiquitous this season, were given emotional weight.

 

 
 

 
 

 

Nigo’s Personal History in Print

Echoes of Kenzo Past

The show also celebrated Kenzo’s legacy. A stunning train graphic printed across coats and suiting referenced the brand’s Fall 1998 Orient Express show, linking the label’s past storytelling prowess to this current moment. It was a nod to house history, but also a commitment: Nigo hinted that this collaboration-within-a-collaboration will continue in future seasons.

Another fresh dynamic was the arrival of Joshua Bullen as Kenzo’s new design director. Formerly of Givenchy and Stone Island, Bullen’s hand was visible in the tighter tailoring and refined workwear shapes. Together with Nigo, he reimagined Kenzo’s 1998 colorways into mohair contrast-lapel suits and statement outerwear, bridging house tradition with a sharper, more precise contemporary energy.

Standout looks included denim-on-denim ensembles featuring Mount Fuji–inspired back pocket seaming—a detail that quietly blended Japanese topography with Parisian tailoring. Six-button double-breasted jackets in chalky pinstripes echoed both jazz-age silhouettes and ‘90s streetwear bravado. And the 1920s-style baseball caps with skinny brims gave the whole affair a slyly bookish finish.

What holds the Kenzo FW25 collection together is a reverence for creative lineage—not just Kenzo Takada’s legacy, but the many underground, street, and pop-cultural currents that have shaped Nigo’s journey from Harajuku to the fashion capitals. It wasn’t just another designer-artist co-branding exercise—it was a reunion of two creative forces who’ve been in conversation for decades. Fall/Winter 2025 may have been painted in graffiti, mohair, and denim, but its essence was pure story. Kenzo.