With his Fall/Winter 2026 collection for Tom Ford, Haider Ackermann approaches the house’s legacy with clarity and restraint. Where Tom Ford once defined a language of cinematic seduction, Ackermann sharpens that vocabulary into something cooler, leaner, and strikingly precise.
The runway opens with tailoring that snaps into place. Jackets cut with razor lines frame the torso with architectural certainty, while trousers drop lower on the hip—elongating the silhouette and lending an understated sensuality. The effect is not overtly theatrical; instead, it carries a quiet authority.
Menswear plays confidently with provocation. Leather jeans laced along the side seams introduce an element of rebellious polish, while sharply tailored jackets maintain the house’s signature polish. The collection moves easily between masculine structure and something more fluid—an intentional exchange of power between gender codes.
For women, Ackermann embraces transparency with elegance. Sheer skirts reveal the architecture beneath while maintaining a sense of control. The transparency never feels fragile; instead, it carries a certain steel—seductive, but deliberate.
Throughout the collection, the drop-hip trouser silhouette appears repeatedly, reinforcing the elongated lines that define the season. The look suggests both ease and discipline, a balance that keeps the clothes modern rather than nostalgic.
Confidence runs through every look, bordering at times on arrogance. Yet it is a compelling arrogance—one rooted in craftsmanship and clarity of vision.
Late in the show, Kristen McMenamy appeared in a tweed suit that felt entirely at home within Ackermann’s universe. The look was quietly electric: tailored, self-possessed, and aristocratic in bearing. She moved with the authority of someone born to the role.
If Demna’s Gucci collection looked backward to rediscover the house archive, Ackermann’s Tom Ford feels more forward-leaning. It honors the sensual codes Tom Ford established while refining them into something sharper—controlled, confident, and unmistakably modern. Tom Ford.
