Dublin born, and raised in Ireland, designer Simone Rocha looked to the traditions, mythology, and ceremony of Celtic folklore in creating her Spring Summer 2020 collection. Traditionally on Wren day, December 26, wren-boys, often dressed in straw suits, hunt wren and later go door-to-door demanding money. While the historical lore of this celebration is intricate and steeped in ritual the designer expands her recall by envisioning the delicate interiors of the homes visited by the parading wren-boys. Hence the contrasting masculine spikes on sandal straps, straw harness, and pearl necklaces. There is a generous abundance of ruffles and feminine flounces layered into this collection. The meeting of the folklore of the fields, lovely wallpaper, and delft china inspired prints, straw, and crocheted raffia delightfully envelope her swans.
Throughout this stunning collection, the award-winning designer nods to the avant-garde, deconstruction, and embellishment with a refined measure. Royal decadence, ruffled finery and the looming glint of ritualistic mystery embolden Rocha’s narrative. Starched white sleeves and eyelet ruffled hems extend outward recalling crisp linen table cloths and those to whom the manor born. On the most tailored looks in the collection, the designer employs crisp satin in pastel chintz prints on some and black sequins en masse on others. The designer shape-shifts the silhouette by adding tier-tuille ruffles to layered smock tops and skirts, the leg of mutton sleeves are full and puffy and the avian inspired balloon shape, tapered far below the waistline are ever so delicately elegant. Simone Rocha.