In an intimate black-tie event, Philipp Plein presents a double show for Autumn/Winter 2019 at The Grill, a mid-century midtown pleasure palace designed by Phillip Johnson and Mies van der Rohe. First, a capsule collection from the high-luxury menswear brand Billionaire; followed by the women and men’s collection for Philipp Plein.
This was Billionaire’s debut show in the United States: an exciting moment to mark the brand’s recent American relaunch with the opening of its first store on Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills. After Milan Fashion Week in January, it’s also Billionaire’s second show in two months.The capsule collection is a master class in sartorial sophistication and refined elegance, each piece 100% made in Italy – and, this season, dedicated to the seductive world of eveningwear.
As to be expected, tailoring is at the heart of the wardrobe with single and double-breasted suits in soft velvets, with shawl and peak lapels, and matching waistcoats, double-faced scarves and bowties. The rich palette drifts from ecru, beige and brown into burgundy, purple and royal blue.
Elsewhere, check design blazers are worn with silk shirts with jeweled buttons, cummerbunds and straight-legged pants. True to Billionaire’s unwavering dedication to next-level opulence, outerwear is an impressive display of shaved mink coats, crocodile trenches, mink-collared aviator jackets and reversible sheepskin coats – each a proud example of industry-leading craftsmanship. And, in the last word for easy, louche eveningwear, silk patterned pajamas and gowns are worn with tone-matched roll necks and slip-ons.
These are classic dress codes reimagined for a modern-day dandy. Like the grand surroundings of The Grill, the Billionaire wardrobe delivers tradition perfected for today. Billionaire.
Philipp Plein returns to New York Fashion Week for the fourth time and the show highlighted the brand’s signature glamour and attitude. This season the trademark bling has been pared back, replaced with a more grown-up, toned-down style; it’s time for a new era of Plein elegance.
Titled Space Cowboy, this collection revisits A/W14’s Noir Cowboy theme, updating the story with a shiny futuristic vision of the Wild West. Cue a German-only soundtrack of Kraftwerk and Rammstein, and a space-age palette of neon and metallic.
With a strong focus, sharp suiting is at the forefront – a new development unveiled in January, at the men’s show in Milan. Throughout tonight’s co-ed line-up, tailored satin-lapelled jackets are decorated in large zebra and leopard prints, and camouflage patterns in green, beige and blue.
Throughout tonight’s co-ed line-up, tailored satin-lapelled jackets are decorated in large zebra and leopard prints, and camouflage patterns in green, beige and blue. The men wear their suits with hoodies, track pants and giant metallic puffer coats; the women, with a matching print neon-lined overcoat or a studded biker jacket with long fringing. Daytime outerwear consists of camel overcoats and trenches with traditional or fluoro tartan detailing, and the women’s evening wear brings extra drama with floor-length gowns in reflective silver or covered in shimmering sequins.
The iconic cowboy boot is central with souped-up versions in patents and neon, decorated with fringing and studs; for evenings, there are over-the-knee editions for added impact. Oversized buckle belts – that other key cowboy symbol – appear throughout, some multi-layered for maximum, punkish effect. And for a perfect finishing touch, large metal eagle bolo ties. Like the original cowboys of yesteryear, this Philipp Plein posse are free spirits, heading out to follow their dreams into a new future. Philipp Plein