Louis Vuitton’s esteemed creative director Virgil Abloh needs no introduction. From his work with Kayne West on the Yeezy line to his Off-White collection the designer’s creative spark, free-thinking, and energetic assertions have gone beyond propelling street-wear styles into the couture universe. With each collection Abloh fuels a scholarly debate about creative expression within the framework of the current cultural climate. The designer’s creative work is always at the forefront of his collection even when designing for the prominent house, Louis Vuitton. In the LV Men’s spring-summer 2020 collection the designer deftly propels the trappings of youth culture forward by adding couture finishes to staples and adding fluidity to the traditionally tailored. Suits are brightly colored, the pants are pleated or cut with wider legs, double-breasted jackets are paired with pleated skirts – even the classic trench is fuller and designed to add volume. In this sorbet tainted collection the bright pink, sky blue, and lemon yellow pronounced boldness to many of the suits. The youth-quake is all about expression and embracing diversity and Abloh looked to fields of wildflowers for his metaphor. No two flowers are the same and collectively, and individually, uniquely expressive.
In the show, flowers were woven into bags and the designer showed one of his signature harnesses bedazzled with live flowers. Floral prints and embroidery flowers crawled around torsos. A gorgeous knit sweater of flowers and ferns cropped a tunic cream-colored hoodie. The multi-layered boho-inspired patch-plaid tunic cover-alls elegantly evoked a new direction masculine daring. The designer acknowledges taking a ‘more of couture approach’ in this collection, even when working with worker silhouettes, and he calls out the fine work of the fashion house’s atelier hand-craft worker, more traditionally employed for the woman’s collections. There is a celebratory exuberance in this collection that all the while frames the exceptionally tailored clothing and beautiful shoes, bags, and accessories. Abloh has LV’s back and his creative expression will keep the label in popular demand with long-established devotees and the next generation of style icons. Louis Vuitton.