Could a reset by the oldest fashion house in Paris foretell a return to design, luxury, elegance, and sophistication in everyday style? Are fashion houses tired of chasing headline-making collaborations and creating logo-centric reruns for mass appeal?
At Lanvin, designer Bruno Sialelli focused on craftsmanship, exquisite fabrics, delicate complexity, and reinterpretations of tenets and design principles of founder Jeanne Lanvin. In the coed show for Sring Summer 2023, Sialelli connects with nature by employing sand, sea, and earthy pale nature tones overlayed with sheer or iridescent layers for women and crisp tailoring for men. Highlighting a connection to nature and featuring a reverence for handwork brings organic emotion to the collection while honoring the heritage of this Maison. Boxy silhouettes structured with cropped shirts and square-cut jackets bring intrigue to his menswear. Long lightweight wool coats reveal sensual paper-thin silken boxer short ensembles. The detailed layering adds fragility, contemplation, and tenderness. Roughly knotted fishing nets and macramé tops on the men elegantly introduce the sea to the mix. Tamed by Sialelli, the cavalcade of complexity that is the sea is elegantly deconstructed to its most elegant and tranquil. In this collection, especially in menswear, a new elegance is outlined. Masculine yet sensitive, unadorned yet complex, organic, confident without artifice, and far removed from flash. Lanvin.