In Stella McCartney’s 2020 fall-winter collection the designer’s signature ease seemed even a bit looser and her acclaimed outerwear a bit more buttoned-up than in previous seasons. Many of the wool coats, officer trench-style, and some with single-button closure with generous draping were long length, and complete with raised collars the completely hid the neck. In addition to the heavy wool coats, McCartney showed faux natural Alpaca wrap coats that added playfulness, romanticism, and modernism to her nearly liquid collection that poured down the runway.
Graphic plaids, lumberjack print, and Art Deco adornments shared the runway with boxy cut caftans and silky nightgown and PJ styled suits. Throughout the collection, the pieces seem to hang from the shoulders and nary a waist is constricted or defined. Movement and asymmetry are added with hem treatments, flowing sashes, belts, scarf-like ties, long sleeves, and boxy tops, and hemlines. The designer’s delicious Art Deco prints and embroideries were derived from a special collaboration with the archive of Erté, the definitive fashion illustrator of the 1920s. McCartney’s use of vegan leather looked especially crisp in laser-cut coats and as trim for dress, belts, and scarves. With deftness, Art-Deco adornments, and a confident array of fabrications Stella McCartney’s fall-winter 2020 collection is unique in its pronouncement of modern feminity, empowerment, and independent beauty.