More and more designers are choosing to show their men’s and woman’s collections together. On occasion when the shows are separate it seems wise to sprinkle in the complimentary gender to demonstrate your understanding of the current identity revolution. In the colorful, clumsy, kaleidoscope of brilliant Technicolor Versace Men’s collection for Spring Summer 2019 show super models Bella and Kendall, among others, announced the shows forward thinking by walking the runway. Their presence underlined the variety of model chosen to present. Gone are the sculpted Adonis’ framed by the designers signature elastic band at the waist. Wide shoulders are now courtesy of the tailoring, but far from required. This collection pushes the Versace standard even more with vivid prints, and opulent floral and sexy faux snakeskin.
Florescent orange and acid green accessories and outerwear provided a restful respite for the eye amid the cavalcade of popping patterns, prints and man-bags. Pin-stripes suits and pants added a wink to tailoring and tradition, yet the designer softens the hard edge of pinstripes with flaring overlays of long shirts, sexy bare midriffs and fuller cut in the trousers. The lone all-black suit (below left), shown with gold adorned sandals, and black bag worn with its gold chain cross-body, was exquisite. In this simplicity the clarity of a relaxed taper and generous tailoring reveal the ease and direction of the entire collection.
Buttoned-up, but only partially, the collection’s confidence is bold and free. The faux snakeskin ensembles are new-boy brilliant, as are the short shorts, and far from club kid or rock and roller standard fare. The wide lapel jackets are worn open and shirts are worn long and loose. The styling and many of the fabrics are employed to blur the lines of masculine and feminine and the resulting freshness is delectable. Sheer shirts revel newspaper headline graphics allowing the designer to speak back to the sensationalism and media attention that besets the House of Versace. At Versace the language of the brand does not need to evolve rapidly, the flash and élan of the brand’s identity is universally recognized, but the construction and purpose of the clothing must move forward. In the Spring Summer 2019 collection the designer broadened their inclusion and embraced free expression, fun and fluidity with Italian flair and Versace style. Versace.