The design-centric collections from Issey Miyake marry orderly constructs with innovative technology. Within the constraints of a vocabulary created by Mr. Miyake over his ground breaking 40+ year career, woman’s collection designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae’s created Miyake’s Spring Summer 2017 collection with the perfect blend of bold geometry, interrupted symmetry and gorgeously eccentric fluidity.
Large and colorful geometric shapes adorned silken jersey tank dresses in the shows opening looks. The bold geometric shapes are stiff and affixed to the jersey with a new heating technique “Cut & Stick.” The contrasting fabric weights interplay to create draping against the body and create a conduit for tension pulling the drape away from the body. To counter balance the trapezoidal shapes created at the lower waist, gathered hems and streamlined tapering emphasis the exquisite bold geometry. The interplay of fabrics is deceptively simple in theory and indicative of the principles of Issey Miyake.
With “3D Steam Stretch” heat reactive thread is woven into “A Piece Of Cloth” and treated with steam causing the thread to shrink, tightening the seams with in the fabric. Miyake’s beautiful pleated fabrics have renewed flow, vim and vigor in this collection.
Adding texture to tribal prints in the collection are stripes and strips of minute pleating. With the use of special glue and the technique “Baked Stretch” the fabric is subtly manipulated to change its drape and flow.
Technological innovations aside, the detail driven designs include bold color blocking, origami point precision in pleats and hems, and prints drawn from both tribal and technological motifs. The pronounced ‘design’ in the collection never overshadows the garments form and function, yet it enhances each with the signature of Issey Miyake.