Hitting all the high notes, from righteous to futuristic, monotone to iridescent, torn jeans to red carpet formal and from suits and power dress to logo laden wear, Balmain designer Olivier Roustening addressed his audience with an attention grabbing collection for Fall Winter 2018. Taking the collection beyond the expected is the sign of designer with foresight to the future. Amid the spectacularly flamboyant collection are staples that will be coveted from the streets to the Avenue Foch. Body hugging logo printed bandage pieces will cover fashion icons and appear in many a music video. Roustening take on the Chanel jacket and evening jacket, paired with perfectly frayed and ripped jeans, will be coveted by young-at-heart ladies worldwide. It is beyond his supreme Balmain-basics that Roustening finds a new voice for the house and his own freedom to find his own flash. This mature visionary is comfortable in allowing his inner fashion school ID to take the helm. It’s the exaggeration of ideas that feels fresh, alive and daring, yet there is nothing naive or primitive in the presentation or construction.
Iridescent and shimmering silver shines and sparkles with space age luminescence. For his chic schoolgirls the designer presents long iridescent skirts paired with a logo sweatshirt and black and silver classic striped French t-shirt. The sequence paillette emblazoned tunic is a joyful holiday celebration best seen at dusk in St. Tropez.
Of course a high- dosage of sequence throughout the show elevate the formality of the collection. In addition to the gorgeous trompe l’oeil prints the new fractured geometry in black with day-go compliments, is powerful and bold. Many of evening dresses, with their broad shoulder, are plumed from the neck to the wrist making the top-heavy warriors-princesses fiercer in their presence. Roustening makes women look beautiful, powerful and loudly present. His energetic pulse continues to entice the uber-elite and the fashion army with accelerating urgency while his personal celebrity nearly outpaces his most notorious clients. What’s next Olivier? We can’t wait. Balmain.