Over fifty years ago iconic designer Yves St. Laurent created his controversial Le Smoking, a modernist take on the men’s tuxedo for woman. This gesture of high-minded design was a paragon of liberation and female empowerment that far outpaced the statement making trend of menswear for women that continues today. Time has blurred the lines of gender identification, and while we can assign some obtuse significance to gender swapping and gender neutral dressing, time has also allowed us the luxury of vapid aesthetic appreciation of men in dresses and women in ‘menswear.’ Fittingly French designer Alexandre Mattiusi, for his line Ami, introduced a menswear collection for women during the Fall Winter 2018 show.
Ami, well regarded for their modern take on outerwear brought new verve to the woolen overcoat. Shocking reds, of-the-moment camel, rich chocolate brown and vivid plaids bring a youthful and Parisian energy to the knee-length overcoat. Mattiusi masterfully moves “French style” forward. The all-important sweater, matched with slim cut pants is finished with a crisp sport jacket or long coat. In the fall winter 2018 collection full, even baggy, chopped pants are shown, pant leg length are higher and colors are blocked and bright. The designer even showed what could be considered sneakers, a long time French no-no, with his trendy street wear. The looks are tailored, sharp, crisp, refined, elegant, lofty and sporty. While not being revolutionary by design, the classic silhouettes, albeit modernized and trendy, are befitting the stylish and handsomely French. Ami.